Surfing is simply the most fun I know how to have on this planet.
Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says, 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.
I was a surf bum wannabe. I left home at age 17 and moved to Southern California to try to take up surfing as a vocation, but this was in 1964, and there was this nasty little thing called the Vietnam War. As a result, I got drafted.
Even though I grew up surfing and sailing in Southern California, I was born horse crazy.
I'm like the Ben Affleck of crowd surfing.
I know people who have been without a home for ages, and lots of my friends are sofa surfing because they are in between jobs or saving for degrees and other studies - paying ВЈ500 rent every month is just not feasible for them.
The surfing - the waves in Indonesia are amazing.
Surfing is incredible. It's both meditative and physical. I think it was my way into California.
I'm fortunate enough with the surfing to be very much at home at the water - my pulse and heart rate are slower in the water than they are on land.
The rule of surfing is never tell anyone where you go.
You'd be surprised how cold you get in the water, especially surfing a place like Pipeline. If the tradewinds are blowing, it gets chilly and sometimes you don't catch a wave for an hour.
I love surfing, rock climbing, cycling - all that stuff. But it's just amazing that I can inspire people with my running. It's humbling, really.